So. Cal.

Cycling wise this is the most miserable experience you could hope to put yourself through. I mean honestly, who puts a beautiful coastal road there to tempt a cyclist and then puts two major cities in the way with a traffic light every 200 meters and fills the road with arrogant bastard drivers trying to push you off it? Not all was doom and gloom however, although the cycling was not fun I stayed with some great people: first was Mr and Mrs J Dutton in LA, Delyth was the perfect hostess and I wanted for nothing as I took my first proper break from the saddle (a luxurious 4 days!) and explored a little of what Santa Monica has to offer. Next in San Diego I stayed with Michael and Bernadette, who treated me like a son, feeding me almost too well (detecting an extra spare tyre on leaving) and helping me get myself geared up for my push into Mexico. Along the way I met the usual characters on the street, including a 50 year old guy, who apparently set up Ultimate Cage Fighting and is now in a multi-million dollar law suit with some fat cats who stole it from him, meanwhile he´s working as a street sweeper (hhhhmmmm). I also treasure a conversation I had as I was borowing a pump from a bike shop. The owner comes out to talk:

Him:"you know your cycling the world´s most popular bike route"
Me:"come again"
Him:"the PCH (pacific coast highway) through So. Cal. is the most popular bike route in the world"
Me:"Say´s who?"
Him:"Well I came up with the phrase but in 20 years no one´s ever challenged it"

At this point I´m thinking that 20 years is far too long for such a stupid, obviously bollocks statement to go unchallenged, I set about erring the ways of those who have gone before:

Me:"I´m not so sure buddy, have you ever cycled the route from Jasper to Banff I hear that´s meant to be pretty special"
Him:"Who cares about some beautiful remote route, I´m talking numbers of cyclists."

This statement encapsulates all that is wrong with the Californian psyche, but I´m happy, it keeps those tools off the nice roads.

Me:"well I was always told it was quality not quantity that counts"

I encounter a stony silence for the next 5 minutes, happy with my work I potter off.